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In 2013 I trekked the first half of the GR20 on Corsica between Calenzana and Vizzavona, (you can read about it here: GR20 - 2013 - Trip Report). This year I decided to complete the route. Commonly referred to as the ‘easier half’ the Southern section from Vizzavona to Conca is far from easy!

Character

The GR20 is affectionately known as the ‘Toughest trek in Europe’, this could be because of the amount of ascent and descent required on an average day or it could be the character of the trail underfoot, which is relentlessly rocky and uneven, you are generally climbing or descending steep slabs or boulder fields and borderline scrambling on some sections.

This makes it a thrilling trek.

Practically Speaking

All the hype makes it very popular, I went during what is considered to be early in the season and found the refuge areas to be pretty overcrowded. As a backpacker I like to camp, and wild camping is even better, but on the GR20 you have to succumb to being organised. There’s no camping other than in designated areas near to refuges, and there is no practical alternative, wild camping is illegal and most times you couldn’t stray from the path and find a quiet place anyway, the path passes through rugged mountains which don’t offer many practical areas to pitch a tent.

The refuge areas therefore define where you can stop on any given day making it very predictable, there are some route options still to be decided though, variant routes exist which I took advantage of and fit trekkers can sometimes complete 2 days in one.

I met a pair of young guys who were doing the full route from Calenzana, but they had combined two days in one for the whole of the Southern section because they were desperate to finish the route and get a bit of comfort!

Completion Options

Of course I backpacked the whole route, carried some of my own food and had my own tent and stove. Some trekkers did the whole route with a daypack and used the facilities to the full. In order to do this you would either book beds in the refuge or book one of the many hire tents available. You would also need to arrange meals at the refuges.

Even if you were camping the refuges have a kitchen area for backpackers where you can use the cooking equipment (stoves, gas and pots) rather than carry your own.

It all comes down to how you like to do it and although I maximised the backpacking elements I also bought a few meals along the way and best of all had a shower every night. As a rough indication of costs I paid 20Euro to pitch my tent for the night, 25Euro for an evening meal and 9Euro for a breakfast. Cash only on the trail.

Trip Report

Getting There and Back

Costs

Mark Richardson
Mark was the founder of Ultralight Outdoor Gear back in 2006 and has completed long distance backpacking routes in some of the remotest parts of the world. His favourite hikes have been Torres del Paine (full circuit), the John Muir trail and the Markha Valley trail (Ladakh, India). Although semi-retired Mark has not lost any enthusiasm for minimalist backpacking and is tackling Scotland’s Munros choosing multi-day backpacking routes over the more usual guide book excursions. Read more from Mark Richardson